Today was a pretty action packed day. After I finished up with my work this morning we headed down to Off The Wall to check the surf. We liked what we saw, and I posted up with the camera for about half an hour. Next, we trekked down to Laniakea and all the spots in between. We found lots of crowds, and less than stellar waves…. It was an easy choice to head back up to our end of the shore.
We ended up going out at Freddy’s, along with Becca donning swim fins and my GoPro. I had an awesome session, but I can’t say the same for Stephen or Becca. Becca ended up losing her fins when a big set rolled through about 20 minutes after going out. The wave dragged her down and ripped the fins right off her feet. Apparently not all swim fins float equally. On the bright side, I suppose if some swim fins are our only casualty so far, we’re doing alright.
Freddy’s was a bit slow with the waves, which sent Stephen paddling over to Velzy’s. Neither of us had tried Velzy’s yet because it’s a very localized wave, and pretty gnarly looking. He sat inside and managed to pick a few small ones off, but mostly had to fight the crowd and avoid shallow reef.
Meanwhile back at Freddy’s it was just myself and another guy trading head high waves for over an hour. It’s always great catching good waves without a crowd!
Below are my selected shots from today – enjoy.